The Truth About Hair Relaxer and Straightening Products

The Truth About Hair Relaxers and Chemical Straightening

Any chemical process is damaging on your hair, however if you choose to go this route, then ensure that it is done on healthy hair. Relaxing over damaged, previously processed or bleached hair will cause your hair to break off or even disintegrate. 

It is thus advisable that you first focus on treating your hair for as long as you can to get it into optimal health before relaxing.

Do not relax your hair more than once a month. Try to stretch out your relaxer to as long as possible as you focus on your hair regime and new growth.  Always choose a mild relaxer.

The FDA in the United States lists Hair Dyes and Hair Strengtheners as the two top consumer complaints received in any given year! DIY Chemical processing products are available over any counter for anyone to use. It is however a powerful process which changes the basic chemical makeup of the hair strand.

Before performing any chemical process whether it’s at home or in a salon, it is important to have all the information required to make informed decisions. The following information is scary - so be warned, natural doesn’t sound that bad after reading this. More after the jump.

The History of Hair Strengtheners

Relaxers as we know it was accidentally discovered by Garrett Augustus Morgan, the son of former slaves. Hr also invented the traffic signal and gas mask! In 1910 while working in a sewing machine repair store attempting to invent a new lubricating liquid for the machine needle, legend has it that Morgan wiped his hands on a wool cloth, returned the next day, found the woolly texture of the cloth had smoothed out, and set out to find how the liquid chemical had changed the texture as it had. He experimented on an Airedale dog, known for their curly textured hair, and the effect was successfully duplicated.

Morgan then tried his lubricating liquid invention on himself, called it a “hair refining cream”, and thus patented the first chemical hair straightener. He founded a personal grooming products company which included hair dying ointments, curved-tooth pressing combs, shampoo, hair pressing gloss, and the one that started it all: the “G.A. Morgan's Hair Refiner Cream” (advertised to “Positively Straighten Hair in 15 Minutes”).

The truth behind Lye vs. No-Lye   

Sodium Hydroxide is the strongest type of principal chemical used in some chemical relaxers because it provides the most long lasting and dramatic effects. However, this same sodium hydroxide is found in drain cleaners, which well demonstrate the strength of this, chemical. It is what is used in products that are referred to as “lye” relaxers. The strength varies from a pH factor of 10 to 14. With higher pH, the faster the straightening solution will take hold, but the more potential the damage.

Guanidine Hydroxide is the other common option of relaxer chemical used today. This is what is referred to as “no-lye” relaxers. This label can be misleading to some consumers. It does not imply that there aren't any strong chemicals used or that the chemicals used are somehow less potentially damaging. Some have mistakenly thought that with “no-lye” relaxers there are less steps and all the worry of chemical hair straightening is removed. Although this type of chemical hair relaxer can be less damaging than its counterpart, the hair and scalp should be in top condition before attempting treatment, and this type also requires special care when applied.

All relaxers require conditioning treatments before and after application. The decision to straighten the hair chemically requires much forethought and really a commitment to healthy hair care treatments over a long entire period of time.

 

The Do's / The Don'ts Before Relaxing

How can chemicals “relax”, or straighten hair? Well first of all, as assumed, the chemical would need to be potent enough to do so. Both lye and “no lye” relaxers are very strong chemicals that work in the same manner by changing the basic structure of the hair shaft. The chemical penetrates the cortex and loosens the natural curl pattern. This inner layer of the hair shaft is not only what gives curly hair its shape but provides strength and elasticity. Once this process is performed it is irreversible.

This process which produces the desired effect of “straighter” hair at the same time leaves hair weak and extremely susceptible to breaking and further damage. One must keep in mind that relaxers do not help the hair, but actually strip it. So by applying chemicals to the hair, even if it is to achieve a desired effect, is never really to the benefit of your hair health.

Due to this, it is first strongly recommended that it be applied only under the direction of a hair care professional with a record of success with healthy hair care and chemical straightening, and that you follow conditioning treatments before and after the process.

Possessing a healthy scalp beforehand decreases the possibility of problems occurring. Relaxers should never be applied to already damaged hair, or on someone who has had scalp damage. Age should also be considered. Although your young children may want to have the hairstyles they see on adults or other young people, parents should seriously consider applying such strong chemicals to young hair and the potential damage that could last a lifetime if misused; most times it is not necessary to apply any chemical product to young hair.

“Over processing”, the excessive use of relaxers on the hair or applying the chemical to already processed or relaxed hair, is the most typical misuse of these chemicals. Once the initial relaxer is applied to “virgin hair” (or a “virgin relaxer” is performed), “touch-ups” (or chemical applied thereafter) should only be applied to new growth between 6-8 week periods (or more). This however, depends on the rate of hair growth and condition of the hair as advised by your hair care professional. (Some say that even six weeks is too soon to reapply relaxer to new growth). And it is standard to wait at least 2-4 weeks before applying hair color chemical (or dye) to recently relaxed hair, if applied at all.

I've Decided to Straighten My Hair: Now What?

So after careful consideration you've decided to chemically straighten your hair. A “strand test” should always be performed during your consultation at the salon or on your own. Remember not all hair types (even if they are naturally tightly curled) are the same. Everyone's hair is different.

Tips when Relaxing Hair

Protective petroleum “base cream” should always be applied to help protect the scalp so that no chemical product comes in contact with your scalp. It should also be applied around the hairline and behind the ears.

After the relaxer chemical has been applied, and let set for the appropriate amount of time, the chemical needs to be completely removed with warm water, and then a neutralizing formula is applied. This step is essential to lower the pH – If not lowered the hair will break.

Apply a conditioner to restore some of the natural oils and proteins removed by the chemical.

Relaxers should be applied to hair that is completely dry.

Relaxers should be applied to unrelaxed hair only. Applying relaxer chemical to already relaxed hair will only cause breakage.

Do not exceed the processing time. It is crucial that this time period not be elapsed, as this will result in over-processing.

Scalp burning is not “normal”, and when applied correctly the scalp should not burn. If you scalp burns, stop immediately.

If newly chemically straightened hair is not given special treatment it can become brittle, dry, damaged and break. Relaxed hair will tend to be drier and break easily. Regular deep conditioning is a must.

Limit the use of hot styling tools (such as blow dryers, hot combs, and curling irons). Try not to use heat on your hair at all between visits if possible.

Follow up a relaxer with a protein and moisture treatment.

Although there may be risks, and certainly much information to consider, in the hands of a professional, many have enjoyed for years good hair health while chemically straightening their hair. When done correctly this method does successfully straighten, soften the texture of the hair, and provides stunning results.