Before we get to Hair Growth and Care regimes, it’s important to understand the products you use on your hair, which ones to avoid and which ones are best, as well as dispelling some hair myths. There is no point putting products on your hair, if you don’t understand what it’s doing now, and what it’s doing in the long run.
The Hair care industry is worth billions of dollars each year. There are of course products that are excellent in assisting with the condition of the hair and a lot of research has been put into these products. However there are also many products whose ingredients only mask the underlying damage and do nothing to actually treat the symptoms.
You might look at it and think that if it’s making your hair look good then you don’t care - but understand that products that mask damage and cause more damage, leads to your hair breaking and splitting. So it might look good now, but ultimately you will be losing that lovely length you are trying so hard to retain.
Regardless of the texture of your hair -there are ingredients in products that are either carcinogens (poisons) or cause more damage to your hair than good over the long run.
Did you know that 100 years ago the rate of cancer was 1 out of every 100 people in the USA and in 2010 it is currently 1 in every 3?
There are many contributors to cancer: pollution, air quality, water quality, food quality, noise pollution, technological pollution (think of all the wireless beams in the air) and lack of sufficient nutrients in our mostly modified food.
The reality is that we as consumers don’t receive full disclosure from the manufacturers of beauty products, because quite frankly why would they want to warn us when they don’t have to. Because the beauty industry is not classified as medical - full disclosure is not a legal requirement in most countries in the world. You might see warnings on household detergents but that is the extent of it.
As consumers we should educate ourselves on what we are consuming internally and externally. The little we know can go along way not just to great hair, but great health as well.
So lets go. This list is only a list of the most common ones - there are however thousands out there. If you would like to see a full list then please see the links in the Resources section at the end of the book.
If you see any of these ingredients, then by all means avoid in any beauty products, hair, skin or body:
Hair Spray
Scientists conducted a study in the UK and found that women who use hairspray containing an ingredient called phthalates during the first trimester of pregnancy increased the chances of having a son with a genetic deformity in the urinary tract. They found that taking folic acid supplements decreased the risk, but that does not mean it eliminates it. They also found an increased risk in women who worked in industries where they are exposed to hairspray chemicals such as hair product factories, research laboratories and hair salons.
Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol is a common humectants (attracts moisture) in cosmetics. It is also the major ingredient in anti freeze products, brake fluid and hydraulic fluid. Tests found that it is a skin irritant and research warns that you should avoid skin contact and can cause liver abnormalities and kidney failure. Exposure through inhalation causes nausea, vomiting and central nervous system depression.
Mineral Oil/Petrolatum/Petroleum/Coal Tar
Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Petroleum and Coal Tar are all derived from crude oil. These ingredients are used as a metal cutting fluid. Research has found that this liquid suffocates the skin by forming an oil film. So your hair and skin looks shiny, but in reality oxygen and moisture is being blocked out. Holding large amounts of moisture in the hair and skin can also result in long-term immature, unhealthy and sensitive skin that dries out easily. This results in premature aging.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate
This is a common one found in MOST shampoos. There are however a number that do not contain these ingredients. SLS is a skin irritant and used in order to test the healing properties of other ingredients. So they use SLS to cause a skin irritation in order to test a product that will ease the irritation! SLS also dries out the hair due to its detergent effect. SLS is also used more commonly in household detergents, garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers and car wash soaps.
Sulfates have been found to cause poisonous nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoo and cleansers by reacting with commonly used ingredients found in many other products. Large amounts of nitrates can enter the body from just one shampoo application.
A derivative called “Sodium Fluoride” is used in certain brands of toothpaste and also as a rat poison! In order to counteract the effects of SLS on hair, laboratories developed conditioners. The conditioners re-close the open cuticle from the harsh sulfates and using ingredients based on silicone, the damage is masked by creating a waterproof seal on the hair. The problem is that this seal also blocks out moisture and hides the damage.
Silicone
Silicone based conditioners and hair products contain ingredients typically ending in the words “cone”, “conol” or “xane”. In no way is damage eliminated, but rather hidden by the cones. How do you treat damage that you can’t see? The damage is still there leading to more damage, which leads to breakage and dryness of your hair, which results in a longer struggle to grow your hair and get it to its optimal healthy state.
Many conditioners do not contain cones and are generally healthier for hair. When you first cut cones out of your conditioners or leave INS, your hair will seem more damaged, this is because the damage is no longer hidden. As you begin to treat your hair and follow a hair care regime, slowly this damage will be healed and you can move on cone free!
Glycerin (synthetic)
Glycerin draws moisture from inside the skin or hair, and holds it on the surface for a better "feel". Because it’s drawing moisture from inside the skin and hair, once the Glycerin is off, the hair and skin are left bone dry. Glycerin is listed as a hazardous collagen.
Elastin
Elastin comes from animal skins and ground up chicken feet. It creates a film that suffocates and over moisturizes the skin. Many soap bars are made from lye and animal fat. The animal fat has the potential to allow bacteria to feed and grow in it. It also results in the corrosion and drying out of skin.
Derivatives are found in most cosmetic crème such as pro collagen, collagen, hyaluronic acid etc, all of which cannot penetrate the skin due to the high molecular weight, so they act as a coat and nothing else.
Other useless ingredients are insoluble oil-based Vitamin A (Retinal Palmitate), Placental Extracts, and Royal Bee Jelly (more on that soon).
Biotin (external)
Biotin is a wonderful supplement to take internally to promote hair growth. A deficiency of this supplement has been associated with greasy scalps, hair loss and balding. It is however very rare in humans. It is a good idea to take it as a supplement, but there is no need to take large doses, as it is unnecessary.
External products that contain Biotin are however quite simply a myth. The molecular structure of Biotin is too large to penetrate the skin or hair and thus is used more for marketing that any benefit.
Lanolin
Lanolin is a common skin sensitizer, which can cause allergic skin rashes. It contains pesticides and dioxins used on sheep and wool.
Lauramide
Lauramide is often used in cosmetic products to thicken and allow the product to lather. It is most often in creams, shampoos and soap liquids. It is also used in dishwashing detergents for its grease cutting abilities. It is extremely drying to hair and can cause skin and scalp irritation such as itching and allergic reactions. Lauramide has been declared a carcinogen.
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